Philadelphia Ethiopian Cuisine—Yegeb Tibs, cubed lamb seasoned with jalapeño peppers and rosemary, is to Ethiopian restaurants what General Tso's is to Chinese takeout. Kitfo, rare beef in chili pepper-spiked butter, is also ever-present.
It may come as somewhat of a surprise that Ethiopian cuisine offers some damn good vegetarian food. I bartend on the side at an Ethiopian bar and restaurant in Fairmount and I live in West Philly, the city's mecca for Ethiopian food, so I eat my fair share. The best Ethiopian cuisine I've found in the 'hood is at Abyssinia.
The Vegetarian Combination is a favorite of the regulars at Abyssinia. The combination offers tastes of six distinct dishes served alongside a salad of romaine lettuce and tomatoes that, dressed in oil and vinegar, serve as a palate cleanser. Azifa, a piquant blend of brown lentils with mustard and onion, is served cold. The Shiro Wot, in contrast, is Ethiopian comfort food: served hot, the smooth powdered red split peas are simple and slightly sweet. Fresh green beans, carrots, and cabbage simmered in a turmeric sauce are buttery and mild,
In contrast, Yemesir Wot, split lentils in berbere sauce (generally of ginger, cloves, coriander, and allspice), garlic, and basil are as intense as any Indian curry. Gomen, collard greens sautéed in olive oil, has a straightforward, earthy taste. As is customary, these dishes are served on top of Injera, the signature Ethiopian unleavened bread. Made of the grain tef, the bread has a light sourdough flavor and a distinct, spongy texture. Abyssinia's Injera is thinner and softer than it is at other restaurants and has a fresher taste.
I was told that in Amharic, the language spoken in Ethiopia, the word for friend translates as "someone with whom one shares bread." Recently, when I suggested to an out-of-town friend, Bread Pudding Boy, that we go to Abyssinia for dinner, he responded, "Ethiopian food? I didn't know they had food in Ethiopia!" It's an original joke if I ever heard one. As you'd probably guess, he ate his words once he tried the food.
Abyssinia Restaurant
229 S. 45th Street
7 days a week, 10am-midnight